Our Encounter with San Cosme & Damian

Sometimes, journeys lead us to places that we don’t just visit — they become part of us. San Cosme y Damián was one of those places: a small town with a great soul, where history breathes through every stone and hospitality feels like an embrace. We arrived hoping to learn about its Jesuit past, but we ended up finding our place in the world.


When we first arrived in San Cosme y Damián, we only knew a few historical facts: founded in 1632, it is one of the emblematic thirty Jesuit-Guaraní towns and the only mission that has remained active continuously since its creation. Perhaps we were drawn by the idea of discovering a new destination, or perhaps by the story of its colonial astronomical observatory, built by Father Buenaventura Suárez together with the Guaraní — a landmark that left an important mark on the astronomy of its time.

But what we found upon arrival far exceeded our expectations. San Cosme y Damián is not merely a relic of the past — it is a living town, where daily life and Jesuit-Guaraní heritage intertwine in harmony. We were immediately captivated by its tranquil atmosphere: cobblestone streets, houses with large courtyards, centuries-old mango trees, animals wandering freely as if they owned the place, the deep red of the soil contrasting with the lush green vegetation, and the rugged banks of the Paraná River. It felt like stepping into a serene, timeless world — authentic and unspoiled.

The Jesuit mission here is not a museum but the beating heart of the community. Sober yet majestic, it remains the spiritual and social center of the town. Its church, adorned with wooden sculptures carved by the Guaraní, continues to host religious and communal ceremonies, while the historical complex remains alive thanks to the way its inhabitants have always used it — as a school, courthouse, and municipal offices. Thus, the mission is both heritage and present.

On subsequent visits, this small town embraced us with its unhurried rhythm, picturesque charm, and the warmth of its people. Interacting with the locals proved to be the most enriching experience of all. Here, life pays tribute to simplicity. In every conversation — whether sharing stories and anecdotes or simply talking about the weather — we felt the warmth and hospitality that define the people of this place. Although Paraguay is known for its hospitality, in San Cosme y Damián it seems to reach another level, permeating every aspect of life. People share barbecues, fish, tereré, and beer… with family, with friends, with friends of friends — and with us, who had just arrived.

Although Paraguayans and Argentinians share a natural affinity, here we were considered members of the community from the very beginning. Even though we don’t speak Guaraní, we never felt like strangers or foreigners. We were welcomed as locals from the first day. San Cosme y Damián is no longer just a place we visited — it is the place where we live.

Few people know about this unique place, where the legacy of the Jesuits and the Guaraní still lives on. Anyone who visits, even for just a day, will leave with an authentic and unforgettable experience.

Cristian van Gent - January 2024